Convent of St John at Mustair

The convent of St John sits at the far end of Val Mustair, a valley that drains east towards Italy and is reached over a high pass. The church was founded in the Carolingian period and its walls were painted from top to bottom with scenes that survive in unusual quantity, later overlaid in places by Romanesque work. A carved statue of Charlemagne stands inside, and the monastery museum in the surrounding buildings covers the community's long history and the archaeology of the site. Benedictine nuns still live here, so the visit works around their routine and the quieter parts of the complex stay closed.

What you actually see

• The Carolingian wall paintings - early medieval scenes covering the church interior.
• The Romanesque overpainting - the later cycle in the apses, layered over the first.
• The statue of Charlemagne - the carved figure standing in the nave.
• The convent museum - the tower rooms, archaeology and the story of the community.

When to go

Summer to early autumn, when the Ofen Pass road is reliably open and bus services run more often. The valley is high and winter closes much of the approach. Museum hours are limited and the church closes for services, so aim for late morning or early afternoon and check the day's opening times before setting out.

Honest expectations

Getting there is the hard part: it is at the far end of a long valley beyond a high pass, several hours from anywhere large, and worth a night in the area rather than a dash. The paintings are faded and high on the walls, and the church is dim, so detail is hard to read without binoculars or the museum's explanation.

Nearby

The Swiss National Park lies back along the pass road, and the valley continues into Italy.