Cocido Madrileno

Cocido madrileno is one dish served as three, the vuelcos: chickpeas, vegetables and meats simmer together for hours, then the broth is strained off and served first with fine noodles, the chickpeas and vegetables come second, and the meats last, typically beef shin, chicken, pork belly, morcilla, chorizo and a bone with marrow. It descends from adafina, the Sabbath stew of Sephardic Jews, adapted with pork after the expulsions. It is winter food, heavy enough that the afternoon is written off afterward, and most traditional restaurants serve it on set days, commonly Tuesday or Wednesday. A handful of Madrid restaurants have served it continuously for over a century.

What you actually see

• The three courses - broth with noodles, then chickpeas, then meats.
• The meat plate - beef, chicken, pork belly, morcilla and chorizo.
• The set days - restaurants serving it on particular weekdays.
• The long lunch - a meal that occupies several hours.

When to go

October to April, the season when it appears on menus; many places serve it only on set days, so checking before turning up is necessary. Sunday and midweek lunch are the traditional times.

Honest expectations

Portions are enormous and the meal takes two to three hours; it is not a light lunch. Booking is essential at the well-known places. Vegetarians have no version of this dish, and the meats include several kinds of pork.

Nearby

Traditional restaurants across central Madrid, particularly in the older districts, serve it in season.