Badajoz Alcazaba

Badajoz was founded as a Muslim city in the late ninth century and its alcazaba was rebuilt in the twelfth under the Almohads into the enclosure that survives: about eight hectares within walls of rammed earth and stone with around thirty towers, the largest surviving Moorish citadel in Spain and one of the largest in Europe. The Torre de Espantaperros, an octagonal albarrana tower with a later belfry on top, is the landmark. Inside the walls are the Palacio de los Duques de la Roca, now the provincial archaeological museum, gardens, and a good deal of open ground. The city below was fought over repeatedly because of its position on the Portuguese border, and the walls carry damage from several sieges.

What you actually see

• The Almohad walls - eight hectares enclosed by around thirty towers.
• The Torre de Espantaperros - an octagonal tower with a later belfry.
• The archaeological museum - provincial collections in a ducal palace inside.
• The Guadiana view - the river and the Palmas bridge from the ramparts.

When to go

March to May and October to November; Badajoz records some of the highest summer temperatures in Spain, regularly above forty degrees, and the citadel has little shade. The museum closes on Mondays.

Honest expectations

Much of the interior is open ground and gardens rather than buildings. The walls are earth-built and weathered, with restoration uneven. Badajoz sees few visitors and services are geared to residents.

Nearby

Merida and its Roman remains lie east; the Portuguese border and Elvas are a few kilometres west.