MMCA Seoul

The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art has four branches; the Seoul one opened in 2013 beside Gyeongbokgung, on ground that had been the Defense Security Command and before that a Joseon royal residence. Rather than one tall building the architects broke it into low blocks around open courtyards, so the museum does not overpower the palace next door and you move between galleries partly outdoors - which is either its best quality or a nuisance in rain, depending on the day. Inside are eight galleries, a large film theatre showing programmed cinema, a library and a multi-project hall deep enough for very large installations. The programme leans to Korean contemporary artists with substantial international shows alongside. The red-brick Defense Security Command building was kept and integrated. It sits in the Samcheong district, which makes it easy to combine with the palace and Bukchon.

What you actually see

• The courtyard layout - low blocks, movement between them outdoors.
• The eight galleries - Korean contemporary work with international shows.
• The film theatre - a programmed cinema inside the museum.
• The kept brick building - the old command building integrated.

When to go

Any season. Closed Mondays; open late some evenings, when entry to the permanent collection is free. Check what is on - the building is good but the exhibitions are the visit.

Honest expectations

Ticketing varies by exhibition and several shows are charged separately, which adds up. Moving between blocks means going outside. Weekends are busy.

Nearby

Gyeongbokgung is across the road; Bukchon, Samcheong-dong and Insadong are close.