Haneul Park

Nanjido was Seoul's rubbish tip from 1978 to 1993, and by the end it was two artificial hills of compacted waste about a hundred metres high beside the Han. The site was capped, drained, vented and planted for the 2002 World Cup, and Haneul - sky - Park is the meadow on top of one of them: open grassland at the highest point of western Seoul, crossed by paths, with wind turbines, gas vents still working off the buried waste, and a view over the river, Bukhansan and the city. What it is known for is eulalia, the tall silver grass that covers the plateau and turns pale and feathery through October, when the park holds a festival and stays open into the evening with lighting. The way up is a stairway of 291 steps or a paid shuttle cart. The neighbouring Noeul Park has a sunset viewpoint on the second mound. The history is signposted, which is the point of the place.

What you actually see

• The silver grass - eulalia across the plateau in autumn.
• The 291 steps - the stairway up the capped mound.
• The gas vents - pipes still drawing off the buried landfill.
• The city view - the Han, Bukhansan and western Seoul.

When to go

October for the silver grass festival, which is when the park is at its best and busiest. Spring and summer are green and much quieter.

Honest expectations

The stairway is a genuine climb; the shuttle costs extra and queues in season. The plateau is fully exposed to wind and sun. October weekends are extremely crowded.

Nearby

Noeul Park and its sunset point are on the second mound; the World Cup Stadium is below.