Malva Pudding

Malva pudding is a baked sponge made with apricot jam, vinegar and bicarbonate of soda, which gives it a dark colour and a slightly sticky, caramelised crumb rather than a light one. The step that matters comes after baking: a hot sauce of cream, butter, sugar and sometimes evaporated milk is poured over the pudding while it is still in the dish and still hot, and is absorbed completely, so what arrives at the table is saturated rather than sauced. It is served warm with cream, custard or ice cream. The origin of the name is disputed - explanations point variously to malvasia wine served alongside it, to the marshmallow-like texture of the crumb, and to a personal name - and none is settled. It appears on virtually every restaurant menu in the country and at every family Sunday lunch.

What you actually see

• The jam sponge - apricot jam, vinegar and bicarbonate giving a dark sticky crumb.
• The flooding - hot cream sauce poured over straight from the oven and absorbed.
• Served warm - with cream, custard or ice cream alongside.
• A disputed name - wine, texture and a personal name all offered as explanations.

When to go

All year. An hour. Winter, when a hot pudding makes most sense.

Honest expectations

It is very sweet and very rich - portions are usually too large. Reheated restaurant versions can be dry if the sauce was added early. Quality varies enormously. There is no light version of this dish.

Nearby

Traditional restaurants in every town; Sunday lunch anywhere in the country.