Hrastovlje Church

The Church of the Holy Trinity at Hrastovlje stands inside a stone wall with two towers, built in the sixteenth century as a refuge against Ottoman raids, and the plain exterior gives nothing away. Inside, every surface is painted: a cycle finished in 1490 by Johannes de Castua covering the vaults and walls with the Creation, the labours of the months, the Passion, and along the south wall a Dance of Death in which skeletons lead a line of figures from pope and king to child towards an open grave.

History

Two theories date the church: a Romanesque building of the 12th century, or an Istrian form of early Venetian Renaissance architecture of the 15th. It is 11.7 metres long and 6.05 metres wide, in the 16th century local people built the wall round it as a refuge from Turkish attacks, and the present north-western entrance dates from around 1776 (Wikipedia, Holy Trinity Church (Hrastovlje)).

What's there

• The Dance of Death - a frieze of skeletons leading every rank of society to the grave.
• The labours of the months - a farming calendar painted through the year's work.
• The 1490 cycle - the whole interior painted by Johannes de Castua.
• The defensive wall - the anti-Ottoman refuge wall and towers enclosing the church.

When to go

Year round; the interior is dim and best in bright daylight. Opening depends on a keyholder in the village and hours are limited outside summer. Calling ahead avoids a wasted trip.

Good to know

Opening is not guaranteed and the keyholder's hours are irregular; groups should arrange it. The interior is dark and photography without flash is difficult. The village has no facilities to speak of.

Nearby

Koper is west, and Skocjan Caves are north.

Key facts