Yamal Reindeer Herding Culture

The Nenets of the Yamal peninsula run one of the largest reindeer herding operations still practised, moving herds up to a thousand kilometres a year between winter pastures in the forest tundra and summer grazing near the Kara Sea, crossing the frozen Ob in spring. Families live in a chum, a conical tent of poles covered with reindeer hide in winter and canvas in summer, taken down and rebuilt at each move; the herd provides food, clothing, transport and the cover of the tent itself. Sledges are still pulled by reindeer, alongside snowmobiles. The tundra is also a gas field, and pipelines, roads and infrastructure cut migration routes, which is a live issue for the herders. Visits are only possible through arrangement with communities or operators, usually built around the Reindeer Herder's Day festival in Salekhard or a stay at a camp. This is somebody's home and working life, not an attraction.

What you actually see

• The migration - families moving herds up to a thousand kilometres a year.
• The chum - a conical hide or canvas tent taken down and rebuilt at each camp.
• The reindeer sledges - still in working use alongside snowmobiles.
• The gas field - pipelines and roads cutting across the migration routes.

When to go

March and April for Reindeer Herder's Day and firm snow; July and August for the summer camps. Several days including travel.

Honest expectations

Independent travel is not realistic - camps are far out and reached by helicopter or snowmobile with a guide. Conditions are hard, cold and without facilities. Some organised visits are staged for tourists. Ask before photographing people, and treat the camp as a home rather than a site.

Nearby

Salekhard, on the Arctic Circle, is the regional base.