Northern Lights of Kola Peninsula

Murmansk sits at 69 degrees north, inside the auroral oval, which is the band where the aurora appears most often - so the Kola Peninsula is among the more reliable places in Europe to see it, along with northern Norway and Finland. The season runs from late August, when the nights are dark enough again, to about mid April, with the polar night from early December to mid January giving the longest dark hours. Three things have to align: solar activity producing the aurora, clear sky, and no light pollution, and the second is the usual failure - Murmansk region is cloudy and coastal weather comes in fast. Tours drive out from Murmansk each night towards wherever the forecast is clearest, sometimes hundreds of kilometres. The honest position is that a single night is a lottery and three or four gives a reasonable chance; operators who promise a sighting are not being straight.

The landscape

• The auroral oval - Murmansk at 69 degrees north, inside the band of highest frequency.
• The season - late August to mid April, with polar night giving the longest darkness.
• The three conditions - solar activity, clear sky and darkness, all needed at once.
• The chase - tours driving to wherever the cloud forecast is best that night.

When to go

Late August to mid April; December and January are darkest but coldest. Allow several nights - one night is a gamble.

Good to know

Cloud is the usual reason people see nothing, and no operator can promise a sighting - be sceptical of any that do. Standing outside for hours at minus twenty to thirty requires proper clothing. Tours can involve hundreds of kilometres of night driving. Phone cameras see more than the eye does, which surprises people.

Nearby

Teriberka is a common viewing destination; the Khibiny are south.