Slănic Moldova

The springs at Slănic Moldova were identified in the early nineteenth century, and by the end of it the valley held a spa town of villas, a casino and bath houses, promoted at the time with the claim that its waters rivalled those of the great European resorts. The setting is a narrow wooded valley in the Nemira mountains, and the springs, numbered rather than named, are distributed along a promenade where visitors drink from them in the traditional way, each said to suit a different complaint. The old buildings survive in varying condition, with the casino and some villas restored and others empty. Beyond the town, marked paths climb into forest to rock formations and viewpoints, and the Nemira range offers longer walking. It is quieter and less developed than the better-known Romanian spas, which is its main appeal.

What you actually see

• The spring promenade - a line of numbered mineral springs to drink from.
• Spa architecture - the casino, bath house and villas of the old resort.
• Forest walks - marked paths to viewpoints and rock formations above the town.
• The Nemira mountains - longer routes into the range behind.

When to go

May to October for walking and the promenade; the spa hotels work year-round and winter is very quiet. Autumn colour in the valley is the best time of year. Summer weekends bring Romanian visitors from Bacău and Onești.

Honest expectations

The town is small and the evening options are few, essentially hotel restaurants. Some historic buildings are closed and decaying. The mineral waters are strongly flavoured and not to everyone's taste. Public transport is limited and a car helps considerably.

Nearby

Târgu Ocna and its salt mine lie north; the Nemira mountains rise behind the town.