Salinas

Playa Salinas is a small waterfront on the south coast lined with seafood restaurants on stilts over the water, and it is generally held to be where mojo isleño was created: a sauce of tomato, onion, olives, capers and vinegar served over fried fish, now made across the island. Whole fried snapper with mojo isleño is what people come for. Mangrove cays lie offshore and boats run out among them.

What you actually see

• The mojo isleño - the tomato, olive and caper sauce said to have started here.
• The waterfront restaurants - dining rooms on stilts over the water.
• The whole fried fish - snapper and other local catch, the standard order.
• The mangrove cays - islets offshore reached by boat from the marina.

When to go

December to April is the drier season and the most comfortable; the south coast is severely hot in summer. Weekends are busiest. Lunch and early evening are the main service times.

Honest expectations

The village outside the restaurant strip has little to offer. Prices have risen and portions vary. The south coast heat from May to September is punishing.

Nearby

Central Aguirre is east, and Guayama is beyond it.