Puerto Rican Cuisine

Puerto Rican cuisine, proudly known as cocina criolla, is the island's soulful comfort food, a delicious fusion of Taino, Spanish and African influences built on plantains, rice, beans, pork and a fragrant base of seasonings called sofrito and adobo. Its most iconic dish is mofongo, mashed fried green plantain seasoned with garlic and pork crackling, often stuffed with meat or seafood. Equally beloved is lechon, whole pig slow-roasted over charcoal, the savoury rice dish arroz con gandules with pigeon peas, and an array of crispy fritters like bacalaitos and alcapurrias.

What you actually see

• Mofongo - the garlicky mashed fried plantain, often stuffed.
• Lechon - the whole pig slow-roasted over charcoal.
• Arroz con gandules - the savoury rice with pigeon peas.
• The fritters - the crispy bacalaitos and alcapurrias.

When to go

Year-round; the lechoneras of the mountain town of Guavate, where whole pigs roast over charcoal on weekends, and the beachside food kiosks of Luquillo are legendary spots to eat, alongside home kitchens and city eateries. The food is at the heart of family gatherings and holidays.

Honest expectations

Puerto Rican food is hearty, starchy and pork-heavy, built on plantain, rice and fried treats rather than light or spicy-hot fare, so its appeal is soulful, satisfying comfort food rather than delicacy; the seasoning is savoury and garlicky rather than fiery. Eaten at a roadside lechonera or beach kiosk, though, the roast pork, mofongo and fritters are genuinely delicious and a proud, joyful expression of island culture.

Nearby

The lechoneras of Guavate and Luquillo's kiosks are the best places to eat.