Praça do Comércio

The Ribeira Palace stood here for two centuries until the 1755 earthquake and the tsunami that followed destroyed it, and Pombal's reconstruction replaced it with this: a vast open square on the river, arcaded on three sides in matching yellow ranges, closed on the fourth by the water, with a bronze equestrian statue of José I at the centre and the Rua Augusta arch on the northern side. Lisboetas still call it Terreiro do Paço, the palace yard, though the palace has been gone since before the United States existed. It was designed as the face of a rebuilt state, with government ministries in the arcades, and several remain. Carlos I and his heir were assassinated at its western corner in 1908, two years before the monarchy fell. The marble steps at the water, the cais das colunas, run into the Tagus and are where people sit at sunset.

What you actually see

• The arcaded ranges - matching yellow buildings on three sides from Pombal's rebuild.
• The river steps - the cais das colunas running into the Tagus.
• The statue - José I in bronze at the centre of the square.
• The 1908 corner - where the king and his heir were assassinated.

When to go

Year-round. One hour. Sunset draws crowds to the river steps; early morning is empty and better for photographs.

Honest expectations

Very exposed - no shade in summer, and wind off the river in winter. Restaurants under the arcades charge heavily for the location. Busy with tour groups and street sellers. Occasional closures for events.

Nearby

The Rua Augusta arch leads north into the Baixa; the cathedral and Alfama are east.