Carnaval da Madeira

Madeira's carnival has two halves and they are deliberately opposite. The Cortejo Alegórico on the Saturday night is the large formal parade: a thousand or more performers in feathered and sequinned costume on decorated floats along the Avenida do Mar, organised into troupes competing formally, in a style borrowed from Brazil and reflecting the long Madeiran connection to it. The Cortejo Trapalhão on Shrove Tuesday is the opposite - an open, unjudged, deliberately shambolic parade in which anyone can join in whatever they have improvised, and the humour is satirical, aimed at politicians, local events and whatever the year produced. Around them are street bands, a children's parade, and decorations across the city. It is one of the two events, with New Year, when Funchal fills entirely and flights and hotels price accordingly.

What you actually see

• The Saturday parade - a thousand costumed performers on floats along the seafront.
• The Trapalhão - Tuesday's open, unjudged, satirical parade anyone can join.
• The Brazilian influence - a samba-derived style reflecting Madeiran emigration.
• The city decoration - lights and displays through central Funchal.

When to go

February or March, on the carnival dates, which move with Easter. Two to five days. Book flights and accommodation months ahead.

Honest expectations

Dates move each year with Easter. Funchal fills completely and prices rise sharply. Grandstand seats for the Saturday parade are ticketed and sell out; standing views are crowded. Late nights and heavy drinking.

Nearby

Funchal's old town and market are alongside the parade routes; Câmara de Lobos is west.