Arrabida Natural Park

The Arrabida ridge runs along the coast between Setubal and Sesimbra, limestone covered in Mediterranean scrub that smells of rockrose and rosemary in the heat. Its northern side is farmland and vineyards; the southern side falls steeply into the sea, and the beaches at the bottom are why most people come. Portinho da Arrabida, Galapinhos and Figueirinha have white sand and shallow water that turns a pale turquoise more often associated with limestone coasts further east. A whitewashed sixteenth-century convent sits halfway up the slope among terraces. Across the mouth of the Sado, sandbanks shelter a small resident group of bottlenose dolphins that boat operators from Setubal go looking for.

What you actually see

• Portinho da Arrabida - a small cove under the ridge with clear shallow water.
• The ridge road - hairpins and viewpoints between Setubal and Sesimbra.
• The convent terraces - white buildings stepped into the slope above the sea.
• The Sado estuary - sandbanks and the resident bottlenose dolphins.

When to go

Late spring and September give warm water without the summer access controls. In July and August cars are kept off the lower road at busy times and a shuttle runs instead, so plan the day around it. Mornings bring the calmest sea and the best light on the water. Winter is for the ridge road and empty coves.

Honest expectations

Summer parking is the whole problem: spaces fill early, the shuttle queues and the coves get crowded enough to lose their point. Beaches are pebbly in places and the drop to deep water is quick. Dolphin trips can return with no sighting at all. The ridge road is narrow, with cyclists on the blind bends.

Nearby

Setubal's fish market district, Sesimbra and the Cabo Espichel headland.