Subic Bay Freeport

Subic Bay was the largest American naval facility outside the United States until the bases agreement ended in 1992, and what happened next is unusual: rather than dismantling it, the government converted the whole reservation into a freeport and economic zone, keeping the infrastructure, the street grid, the forest and the deep-water port. The result is a district that does not feel like anywhere else in the Philippines - wide roads, old base housing, working traffic lights and a large block of rainforest that was retained as a watershed and is now used for jungle survival training and wildlife tours. Subic Bay itself holds several wrecks, including the USS New York and Japanese vessels sunk in 1944-45, which makes it one of the country's better wreck-diving areas. Beaches run along the western shore toward Barretto and Zambales proper, and duty-free shopping and a scattering of theme attractions fill out the zone.

What you actually see

• The old base - street grid, housing and port infrastructure retained.
• The wreck dives - vessels sunk in the bay, including the USS New York.
• The rainforest block - the retained watershed and its trails.
• The western beaches - the shore toward Barretto and Zambales.

When to go

November to May for dry weather and calm diving. Weekends bring Manila traffic into the zone; weekdays are considerably quieter.

Honest expectations

It is a commercial zone with an odd, semi-suburban atmosphere rather than a resort. Wreck dives are deep and require appropriate certification. Getting around inside the zone needs a vehicle or jeepney.

Nearby

Pundaquit, Anawangin and the Capones lighthouse are up the Zambales coast; Clark and Pampanga are inland.