Cajamarca Carnival

Cajamarca calls itself the carnival capital of Peru and the claim is defensible. Over about a week in February the city is given over to patrullas and comparsas - neighbourhood groups with costumes, bands and satirical verses - parading, competing and taking over the Plaza de Armas, with the Ño Carnavalón figure presiding, being tried, dying and being buried at the end of the week in a mock funeral. The unihuertas, decorated trees hung with gifts that groups dance around and eventually cut down, are part of it. The other constant is water: buckets, balloons, hoses, paint and foam, thrown at everybody, all week, without exception for visitors, cameras or clothing. Hotels are full and prices double. The city is at 2,750 metres and February is the rainy season, so it is cold and wet from both directions.

What you actually see

• The comparsas - neighbourhood groups with costumes, bands and satirical verse.
• Ño Carnavalón - the carnival figure tried, killed and buried at the week's end.
• The unsha trees - decorated trees danced around and cut down.
• The water - buckets, balloons, paint and foam thrown continuously all week.

When to go

February, on dates set by the church calendar. Three to seven days. Book accommodation months ahead; the city fills completely.

Honest expectations

You will be soaked and covered in paint - there is no opting out, and cameras and phones need waterproofing. Heavy drinking throughout, and thefts increase in the crowds. Cold, wet February weather at 2,750 metres. Hotel prices double or more.

Nearby

Baños del Inca is on the edge of the city; Otuzco's burial niches are close.