Encarnación and its Carnival

Encarnación, on the banks of the broad Paraná River facing Argentina, is Paraguay's relaxed summer capital, beloved for the sandy river beaches of its modern costanera waterfront. Above all, though, it is the home of the country's biggest and most spectacular event, the Carnaval Encarnaceno, the self-styled carnival capital of Paraguay. For several weekends of the summer, the town erupts in a joyous, Brazilian-style spectacle of feathered costumes, dazzling floats, samba-style comparsas and dancing crowds sprayed with foam late into the night.

What you actually see

• The carnival - the feathered costumes, floats and dancing parades.
• The Sambódromo - the parade avenue where the comparsas compete.
• The river beaches - the sandy costanera beaches on the Paraná.
• The waterfront - the lively riverside promenade and nightlife.

When to go

The carnival runs on weekends through January and into February, the height of the southern summer, when the parades take over the Sambódromo; the same hot summer months are best for the river beaches. Book ahead for carnival weekends, when the town fills up.

Honest expectations

Outside carnival season and the summer beach months, Encarnación is a quiet provincial town, so its appeal is strongly tied to timing; carnival is genuinely exuberant but smaller and less internationally known than Brazil's, part of its more intimate, local charm. The foam-spraying and late-night crowds are boisterous fun. As Paraguay's most joyful spectacle and a gateway to the Jesuit missions, it is well worth timing right.

Nearby

The Jesuit missions of Trinidad and Jesús are just outside the city.