Asunción

Asunción, spread along the Paraguay River, is one of the oldest cities in South America, founded in 1537 and known as the mother of cities for the expeditions that set out from it. The relaxed, low-key capital blends faded colonial and belle-époque grandeur with a modern skyline, centred on the historic quarter around the pink Government Palace, the Panteón de los Héroes and palm-fringed plazas. Unhurried, humid and genuinely off the tourist trail, it offers a warm, authentic glimpse of a little-visited country.

What you actually see

• The Government Palace - the grand pink presidential Palacio de los López.
• The Panteón de los Héroes - the national mausoleum on the plaza.
• The historic centre - the old streets, cathedral and riverfront.
• The markets and museums - the Mercado Cuatro and city museums.

When to go

April to October, the cooler, drier half of the year, for the most comfortable weather, as summers are intensely hot and humid; the riverside city is relaxed year-round. Evenings on the plazas, when the heat eases, are the pleasantest time to wander.

Honest expectations

Asunción is a low-key, humid capital with faded grandeur, uneven upkeep and few blockbuster sights, so it appeals to curious travellers drawn to authentic, unpolished South America rather than those seeking a postcard city. Its charm is the warmth, the history and the sense of a country genuinely off the beaten path. As the gateway to Paraguay, it is a friendly, unhurried introduction.

Nearby

The nearby towns of the Circuito de Oro and the river are within reach.