Asunción

Asunción, spread along the Paraguay River, is one of the oldest cities in South America, founded in 1537 and known as the mother of cities for the expeditions that set out from it. The relaxed, low-key capital blends faded colonial and belle-époque grandeur with a modern skyline, centred on the historic quarter around the pink Government Palace, the Panteón de los Héroes and palm-fringed plazas. Unhurried, humid and genuinely off the tourist trail, it offers a warm, authentic glimpse of a little-visited country.

History

Juan de Salazar de Espinosa founded the fort of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción on 15 August 1537, the feast of the Assumption, and the founding document of the Cabildo dates from 16 September 1541. After the first Buenos Aires fell in 1542 its Spanish settlers moved here, and from Asunción expeditions went out to found other cities, among them the second Buenos Aires, Corrientes and Santa Fe, which earned it the name "Mother of Cities"; in 1603 the First Synod of Asunción set out guidelines for teaching in Guaraní (Wikipedia, Asunción).

What you'll find

• The Government Palace - the grand pink presidential Palacio de los López.
• The Panteón de los Héroes - the national mausoleum on the plaza.
• The historic centre - the old streets, cathedral and riverfront.
• The markets and museums - the Mercado Cuatro and city museums.

When to go

April to October, the cooler, drier half of the year, for the most comfortable weather, as summers are intensely hot and humid; the riverside city is relaxed year-round. Evenings on the plazas, when the heat eases, are the pleasantest time to wander.

Before you go

Asunción is a low-key, humid capital with faded grandeur, uneven upkeep and few blockbuster sights, so it appeals to curious travellers drawn to authentic, unpolished South America rather than those seeking a postcard city. Its charm is the warmth, the history and the sense of a country genuinely off the beaten path. As the gateway to Paraguay, it is a friendly, unhurried introduction.

Nearby

The nearby towns of the Circuito de Oro and the river are within reach.

Key facts