Lyttelton

Lyttelton sits in the flooded crater of an old volcano and is the port for Christchurch - the Canterbury settlers landed here in 1850 and walked over the hills, before the tunnel. The town of a few thousand on the hillside above the container terminal had a long-established reputation as the alternative corner of Canterbury: musicians, artists, a good Saturday farmers' market, several bars. The February 2011 earthquake was centred close by and Lyttelton lost most of its heritage main street - the Timeball Station, the Empire Hotel, the churches. What followed is why the town is worth a visit rather than a mention: it rebuilt in a deliberately local way, with the market continuing through the wreckage, temporary venues, and the Timeball reconstructed. The Saturday market is the best time to see it. The Bridle Path over the hill is the walk the settlers took, an hour and a half and steep.

History

James Cook recorded the harbour in 1770, and the first ship known to enter it was the sealer Pegasus in 1809. The Canterbury Association, founded in 1848 and led by Lord Lyttelton, had the town proclaimed a port in August 1849 and surveyed by that September, and between 16 and 27 December 1850 four ships brought the first Canterbury pilgrims, swelling the town to about 1,100 people (Wikipedia, Lyttelton, New Zealand).

Highlights

• The drowned crater - the harbour in an old volcano.
• The Saturday market - the town's fixture, which ran through the rebuild.
• The rebuilt Timeball - reconstructed after the 2011 collapse.
• The Bridle Path - the settlers' route over the hill, steep, ninety minutes.

When to go

Saturday morning for the market, which is when the town is fullest. Any season otherwise. The Bridle Path is exposed - check the wind.

Good to know

Much of the heritage main street was lost in 2011 and what stands is a mix of survivors and new build. It is a working port with industrial views. The tunnel is the only quick way in and closes occasionally.

Nearby

Diamond Harbour is across the water by ferry; Christchurch is through the tunnel.

Key facts