Bogyoke Aung San Market

Built in 1926 and still called Scott Market by older residents, this is a covered market of interior lanes with a cobbled floor and arched arcades, holding several hundred stalls. Gems and jade dominate one wing, textiles and longyis another, and there are lacquerware, puppets, antiques, tailors and moneychangers throughout. It is the most visitor-facing market in the city, which means prices start high and bargaining is expected, and it is also where locals go for a good longyi.

History

The market was built in 1926 as Scott Market. It is often thought to be named after James George Scott, who introduced football to Burma, but it honoured the Municipal Commissioner Gavin Scott, near the end of a 30-year career in the city's administration, who was not keen on the idea himself (Wikipedia, Bogyoke Market).

The main sights

• The arcades - the 1926 covered lanes and cobbles, worth seeing as architecture.
• The gem wing - jade, ruby and sapphire dealers, with the quality and the claims varying wildly.
• The textile stalls - longyis, acheik weaving and cotton by the yard, with tailors on site.
• The lacquerware and craft - Bagan lacquer, puppets, and a good deal of imported filler among it.

When to go

November to February for the weather. Mornings are calmer than afternoons. The market closes on Mondays and public holidays, which catches people out regularly.

What to expect

Gem buying here is a genuine risk for anyone without expertise, and certificates offered at stalls mean little. Prices for foreigners open at several times the local rate and bargaining is not optional. Much of the craft on sale is not made where the seller says it is.

Nearby

Yangon Central Station is a few minutes north, and the colonial grid runs south towards the river.