Aguelmame Sidi Ali

Sidi Ali sits at around 2,080 metres on the volcanic plateau of the Middle Atlas, a lake of about three kilometres by one in a shallow basin with almost no trees around it - the treeline is below and the setting is bare high grassland with black volcanic rock, which makes it feel far more remote than the drive suggests. It is generally described as the largest natural lake in Morocco. There are no inflowing or outflowing rivers of consequence; it is fed by rain, snowmelt and springs, and the level moves substantially between wet and dry years, with a long-term decline that is visible in the exposed shoreline. Berber herders bring sheep to the surrounding pasture in summer and there are tents on the plateau. A marabout, the shrine of Sidi Ali that names the lake, stands near the shore. Winter brings snow and the plateau road can close.

What you actually see

• Morocco's largest natural lake - about three kilometres across at 2,080 metres.
• A bare volcanic plateau - black rock and high grassland with no trees.
• A visible decline - exposed shoreline from long-term falling water levels.
• Summer herding camps - Berber flocks and tents on the surrounding pasture.

When to go

April to October; snow closes the plateau in winter. Half a day.

Honest expectations

There are no facilities of any kind at the lake. The track to the shore is rough. Wind on the plateau is constant and cold. Water levels have fallen substantially and the lake is smaller than older descriptions suggest.

Nearby

Timahdite is north; Midelt is south over the plateau.