San Blas and La Tovara

San Blas was a Spanish naval port and shipyard - the point from which expeditions sailed up the Pacific coast to the Californias - and its ruined hilltop fort and customs house still look out over the estuary. The modern draw runs inland: from the town's embarcadero, pangas turn off the estuary into the mangrove channels of La Tovara, and the trip becomes a green tunnel, roots arching overhead, turtles sliding off logs, herons, kingfishers, boat-billed herons and, coiled on the banks with photogenic indifference, American crocodiles. The channels open at La Tovara itself, a spring-fed freshwater pool where visitors swim in cool clear water beside a palapa restaurant; a longer route continues to the Tumba de Yako crocodile sanctuary, which runs a breeding programme for the species. Birders come to San Blas for its own reasons - the surrounding wetlands and forest are among the richest in western Mexico. The town's other famous residents are the jejenes, biting no-see-ums that arrive at dusk and are the reason repellent is sold on every corner.

What you actually see

• The mangrove tunnels - roots arching over the channels.
• The crocodiles - wild on the banks, plus the sanctuary.
• La Tovara spring - the clear pool at the channels' end.
• The old port - fort ruins and estuary views above town.

When to go

November to April for dry weather and easier bugs; early morning boats for birds and cool air. Avoid dusk outdoors in the wetlands.

Honest expectations

The jejenes are legendary - strong repellent, covered ankles and evening caution are not optional. Boats fill and depart when ready; going early avoids waiting. Swimming is in the designated spring area only, away from the crocodile channels.

Nearby

Matanchen bay's long beach and surf, Mexcaltitan's island village and Tepic's museums lie within a couple of hours.