Baja Fish Tacos

The Baja fish taco is a simple thing done exactly right: a fillet of white fish - traditionally cazon, angelito or whatever the boats brought in - cut into fingers, dipped in a beer batter and fried to a light crackle, laid on a warm corn tortilla and finished with shredded cabbage, a mayonnaise-and-crema drizzle, salsa and a hard squeeze of lime. Ensenada claims its invention and defends the claim at the Mercado Negro, the city's fish market, where stands have been frying since the mid-twentieth century and the queue moves fast; Japanese fishing influence in the region is often cited in the batter's origins, and the style spread from here up into California in the 1980s and then everywhere. The self-service condiment bar is part of the ritual - salsas from mild to weaponized, pickled onions, radish, cucumber, more lime - and the correct order is at least two, eaten standing, followed by a shrimp taco for comparison. Everywhere in Baja does them; the market stalls and the beachside carts do them best.

What you actually see

• The fry line - battered fish going into hot oil to order.
• The build - cabbage, crema, salsa and lime on corn.
• The condiment bar - salsas and pickles for self-assembly.
• Mercado Negro - Ensenada's fish market at full pitch.

When to go

Lunchtime, any day; markets are freshest in the morning. Year-round, though the fish varies with season and catch.

Honest expectations

Quality tracks turnover - eat where the queue is. Grease is part of the design. Ask which fish is in the batter today if it matters to you.

Nearby

Ensenada's malecon, La Bufadora and the Valle de Guadalupe wineries surround the market.