Angel de la Independencia

El Angel is how Mexico City signs its name. Raised for the 1910 centenary of independence as the crown of Porfirio Diaz's Reforma, the 36-metre Corinthian column carries a seven-tonne gilded bronze Victory - wings spread, laurel extended - above marble figures of law, war, justice and peace and the seated heroes of the insurgency. It is also a mausoleum: the remains of independence leaders, Hidalgo among them, rest in the base's crypt. The monument has lived the city's history since - famously, the Angel herself fell in the 1957 earthquake and was recast; the column's steps have been repaired and reinforced as the ground settles around it. Above all it is the national gathering place: football triumphs, protests and celebrations converge on the roundabout by reflex, quinceaneras and newlyweds queue for photographs on the steps, and Sunday mornings close Reforma to traffic so cyclists and runners can circle the golden wings. A small ceremonial guard and interior stair to a viewing platform operate on limited permits.

History

The column was ordered in 1900 and designed by Antonio Rivas Mercado, and the foundation stone was laid on 2 January 1902. In May 1906, with 2,400 stones placed to a height of 25 m, the sides gave way because of poorly planned foundations, and the work was begun again; the sculptures are by the Italian Enrique Alciati, and the monument was inaugurated on 16 September 1910 (Wikipedia, Angel of Independence).

What you'll find

• The golden Victory - the gilded angel against the Reforma skyline.
• The marble base - allegories, heroes and the independence crypt.
• The roundabout life - photo parties, Sunday cyclists and celebrations.
• Reforma's corridor - the avenue of towers framing the column.

When to go

Sunday mornings, when Reforma closes to cars, put you on the asphalt beneath the wings; national match days show the monument in full celebratory roar. Dusk gilds the bronze twice over.

Things to know

Interior climbs require advance arrangement and modest fitness on a tight stair - most visits are exterior only. It stands in a working traffic circle every other day; cross at the lights, not through the lanes.

Nearby

The Diana fountain, Zona Rosa cafes and Chapultepec's gates all lie within a fifteen-minute walk along Reforma.

Key facts