Gule Wamkulu

Gule Wamkulu is the great dance of the Nyau, a secret society of Chewa men, performed at initiations, funerals and installations by dancers in masks and costumes of wood, cloth and straw representing spirits, animals and, sharply, particular kinds of human behaviour. The performers are held to be the spirits themselves rather than men in masks. UNESCO inscribed it in 2005 as a tradition shared by Malawi, Zambia and Mozambique.

What you actually see

• The masks - carved wood, cloth and straw figures representing spirits and types.
• The Nyau society - the men's association that owns and performs the dance.
• The occasions - initiations, funerals and installations rather than entertainment.
• The satirical characters - the figures that comment on behaviour and events.

When to go

Performances follow community occasions, most often in the dry season after harvest. There is no schedule; they happen when they are needed. Cultural festivals sometimes stage versions.

Honest expectations

This is secret society practice, not performance; attending needs local invitation and there are things outsiders are not shown. Photographing without permission causes serious offence. Staged versions for visitors are a different thing entirely.

Nearby

Chewa districts across central Malawi, and Chongoni's rock art is connected to it.