Betafo

Betafo sits in one of the most intensively farmed corners of the highlands, where terraced rice fields cover every slope and the volcanic soil is worked to the last metre, and the town is old by Malagasy standards with a Merina history visible in stone tombs scattered through the fields. Lake Tatamarina, a crater lake, lies just outside, and the Antafofo waterfall drops nearby. The name means many roofs, a reference to its size when it was founded. What visitors come for is the walking: paths run out from the town through the terraces, past tombs, springs and villages, and a half-day on foot with a local guide shows highland farming life more directly than anywhere on the main road. There is little formal accommodation, so it is usually a trip from Antsirabe.

History

In the 19th century Betafo was the capital of Vakinankaratra, and the first Lutheran church in Madagascar was built here in 1867 by the Norwegian missionaries John Engh and Nils Nielsen (Wikipedia, Betafo).

What's there

• Rice terraces - slopes farmed to the last available metre.
• Merina tombs - old stone family tombs standing in the fields.
• Lake Tatamarina - the crater lake just outside town.
• Antafofo waterfall - the falls a short walk from the centre.

When to go

April to November for walking. The terraces are greenest from January to April, right after planting, though tracks are muddy then. Harvest in May and June puts the whole valley to work.

What to expect

There is almost nothing organised for visitors: no visitor centre, few signs, and paths that need a local guide. Tombs are family property and should not be approached or photographed without asking. Accommodation is very limited, so most people come for a few hours from Antsirabe.

Nearby

Antsirabe lies east; Lake Tritriva is between the two.

Key facts