Coloane and Hac Sa Beach

Coloane is the half of Macau nobody expects: a hilly green island at the territory's southern end where the pace drops to village speed. Hac Sa - black sand - is its beach, named for the dark volcanic-tinged grains that once covered it, backed by pine trees and a barbecue-friendly park. Inland, trails climb through woods to the highest point in Macau, and on the western shore the pastel-yellow village square with its little chapel, banyan trees and waterfront is the calmest corner of the whole territory. Coloane is also where Macau's famous Portuguese egg tart was invented, in a bakery still standing on the square.

What you actually see

• Hac Sa beach - the dark sand, pine-backed park and long shoreline.
• Coloane village square - the yellow chapel, banyans and waterfront lanes.
• The Coloane trails - forest walks to Alto de Coloane, Macau's high point.
• The original egg tart bakery - the pastel de nata variant that made the island famous.

When to go

Autumn is the sweet spot for both beach and trails; the sea is swimmable from late spring into autumn. Summer brings heat, humidity and typhoon watch. Weekends fill the beach barbecue areas with local families, which is half the atmosphere.

Honest expectations

The black sand has faded over decades and has been replenished, so it now reads dark grey rather than dramatic black - come for the setting rather than the colour. Swimming conditions are ordinary by regional standards and the water is not tropical-clear. Village lunch spots and the bakery draw queues at weekends. Buses are the practical way over; the ride is long but cheap.

Nearby

Cotai's resorts are twenty minutes north; Taipa village and its old houses are on the way back.