Dogo Onsen

Dogo appears in the Nihon Shoki and is generally named as one of Japan's oldest springs, in use for something over a thousand years. The Honkan, the main bathhouse, was built in 1894 as a deliberately elaborate public building - three storeys of wood, a bell tower on the roof struck three times a day, corridors, stairs and a warren of tatami rest rooms above the baths where bathers take tea in yukata after soaking. There is also the Yushinden, a suite built in 1899 for imperial visits, shown on a tour. The building is often cited as one of the influences on the bathhouse in Spirited Away, though the studio has never confirmed a single source and other buildings are named too. A long restoration ran through the 2020s with parts staying open under a decorated wrap; two newer bathhouses nearby take the overflow.

History

With a history of more than 1,000 years, the spring is mentioned in the Man'yōshū, written around 759, and legend says Prince Shōtoku bathed here. It was the favourite retreat of the writer Natsume Sōseki while he taught near Matsuyama, and the hero of his novel Botchan often visits the springs, the only place he likes in the area (Wikipedia, Dōgo Onsen).

The main sights

• An 1894 wooden bathhouse - three storeys with a roof bell struck three times daily.
• Rest rooms above the baths - tatami rooms where bathers take tea in yukata.
• The Yushinden - an 1899 imperial bathing suite, shown on a tour.
• Tiered tickets - price depending on which bath and which rest room you take.

When to go

All year. Half a day. Early morning opening, at six, is the local habit.

Before you go

Long restoration work has kept parts closed and covered - check what is open. The Spirited Away connection is popular belief rather than confirmed fact. Queues form for the upper-tier rooms. Tattoo rules apply.

Nearby

Matsuyama Castle is west; the Shikoku pilgrimage temples 51 and 52 are close.

Key facts