St. Thaddeus Monastery

Qara Kelisa, the Black Church, stands alone on a high open plateau in West Azerbaijan, and Armenian tradition holds that the apostle Thaddeus was buried here and that a church was founded on the site in the first century, making it one of the oldest Christian foundations anywhere, though the church was rebuilt after an earthquake of 1319, keeping parts around the altar apse from the seventh century, and much of the present structure dates from 1811. It takes its name from the black stone of the older eastern part, contrasted with the pale stone of the later western section, and the exterior is covered with carved arcading, figures and geometric bands. Each July several thousand Armenians gather here for a three-day pilgrimage and liturgy, camping around the walls, which is the one time the empty plateau fills.

History

Armenian tradition holds that the apostle Thaddeus, also known as Jude, preached in Armenia and Persia and, according to the 5th-century historian Moses of Khorene, was martyred in Armenia under King Sanatruk; legend has a church first built on this spot, said to be his burial place, in AD 66, while another source puts its foundation in 239 under Gregory the Illuminator, and the true date is unknown. The monastery was damaged during the Mongol invasions in 1231 and again in 1242, and an earthquake in 1319 killed 75 monks and led to extensive rebuilding, though parts around the altar apse date from the 7th century. Much of the present church dates from 1811, when the Qajar crown prince Abbas Mirza supported its repair and the abbot Simeon added a large western extension in ashlar modelled on Etchmiadzin Cathedral, while the oldest parts are of black and white stone. In July 2008 it became a World Heritage Site with two other Armenian monuments in the province, and in 2020 its pilgrimage was added to UNESCO's list of intangible heritage (Wikipedia, Monastery of Saint Thaddeus).

The main sights

• Black and pale stone halves - two building periods in contrasting rock.
• Carved exterior arcading - figures and geometric bands over the walls.
• The high open plateau - the monastery standing alone in bare country.
• The July pilgrimage - several thousand gathering for three days.

When to go

June to September; the plateau is snowbound in winter. Two hours. The July pilgrimage is the one busy period and is a religious event rather than a spectacle. Otherwise it is empty.

What to expect

It is very remote and the drive is long from any city. Outside the pilgrimage the church is usually locked and needs a caretaker. There are no facilities on the plateau. Wind and sun are strong with no shelter.

Nearby

Chaldoran is west; Maku lies north toward the border.

Key facts