Pacu Jalur

Pacu Jalur is a boat race on the Batang Kuantan in Riau with a documented history going back to the nineteenth century, in which jalur - longboats carved from a single tree, twenty-five to forty metres long, crewed by fifty to sixty paddlers from a single village - race in pairs down a marked stretch of river. Each boat carries an anak coki, a child, usually a boy of eight to twelve, who stands on the upturned prow above the water and dances to time and encourage the crew while the boat runs at full speed. The boats are made communally, treated with ritual before racing, and village pride in the outcome is considerable. The main event is held at Teluk Kuantan around August, tied to independence day, and draws large crowds along the banks.

What you actually see

• Longboats from single trees - jalur up to forty metres with sixty paddlers.
• The prow dancer - a child standing and dancing on the bow at racing speed.
• Village crews - each boat built and manned by one community.
• Riverbank crowds - the August festival at Teluk Kuantan.

When to go

Usually August, tied to independence day. Two days.

Honest expectations

Dates shift year to year and are announced locally - confirm before travelling. Accommodation in Teluk Kuantan is limited and fills. Crowds along the bank are dense and shadeless.

Nearby

Pekanbaru is north-east; the Kuantan river runs east towards the Strait.