Reykjavik Coffee Culture

Iceland drinks a great deal of coffee per head, and in Reykjavik the cafe does the work a pub does elsewhere: somewhere to sit for three hours in bad weather with a laptop, a book or an argument. Filter coffee traditionally came with free refills, and the habit persists in many places. Roasting and espresso standards climbed sharply over the past two decades, so the city now supports a scene that would hold up somewhere much larger. What has not changed is the price, which is high, and the willingness of staff to leave you entirely alone.

What you actually see

• The refill habit - filter coffee topped up rather than charged again in many cafes.
• Small roasters - locally roasted beans sold over the counter and by the bag.
• All-day sitting - cafes used as workplaces and shelter through the dark months.
• Cafe baking - the cinnamon buns, kleina and pancakes that come with it.

When to go

Year-round, and most useful in winter, when a warm room in the middle of a four-hour afternoon is worth paying for. Mornings before ten are quiet; weekend afternoons in the centre are not. Many places switch to bar service in the evening, so the cafe atmosphere belongs to the daylight hours.

Honest expectations

Prices are high even by Nordic standards, and a coffee with something to eat can cost what a light meal does elsewhere. Central cafes fill with visitors in summer and a seat can be hard to find. The free-refill custom is no longer universal, so check rather than assume, particularly in the tourist streets.

Nearby

The shopping streets, Hallgrimskirkja and the old harbour are all within a few blocks.