Olympos, Karpathos

Olympos was founded inland and high for safety from raiders, and its isolation, no proper road until the late twentieth century, preserved customs that vanished elsewhere: a dialect retaining features linguists trace to ancient and medieval Greek, an inheritance system passing property through the eldest daughter, communal wood-fired ovens where families still bake, and everyday dress that older women continue to wear, embroidered aprons, headscarves and leather boots. The houses climb a ridge below windmills, some restored and working, with painted wooden interiors and raised sleeping platforms. Festivals, especially around Easter and the August feasts, bring emigrants home from America and Europe and fill the square with lyra music and dancing that goes on for days.

What you actually see

• The ridge village - houses stacked along a spine below windmills.
• The traditional dress - worn daily by older women rather than for show.
• The communal ovens - wood-fired bakeries still used by families.
• The festivals - Easter and August celebrations with music and dance.

When to go

Late spring and early autumn for the drive and the walking; Easter and mid-August for the festivals, when the village is at its fullest and accommodation is scarce. Winter is bleak and windy.

Honest expectations

The mountain road is long, winding and exposed, taking about ninety minutes each way from Pigadia. The village is a living community, not a museum, and photographing people without asking is resented. Facilities are limited to a few guesthouses and tavernas.

Nearby

Diafani port lies below with boats to Pigadia; the north coast beaches are reached on foot or by boat.