Gialova Lagoon

Divari, as the lagoon is locally known, covers about 700 hectares of shallow brackish water separated from Navarino Bay by a sandbar, and it is the first landfall for many birds crossing from Africa, which makes it one of the most important stopovers in Greece: more than 250 species have been recorded, including flamingos, ospreys, glossy ibises and the rare African chameleon, whose only European population lives in the dunes here. A bird hide sits on the eastern shore and a track circles part of the water. The lagoon backs onto Voidokilia, the near-perfect omega of sand that appears in every photograph of Messenia, and the path between them climbs to Nestor's Cave and the ruined Palaiokastro on the ridge above.

What you actually see

• The lagoon - shallow brackish water with waders, ducks and flamingos.
• The bird hide - a viewing shelter on the eastern shore.
• The chameleons - Europe's only population, in the dunes and scrub.
• Voidokilia beach - the circular bay of sand beyond the sandbar.

When to go

March to May for spring migration, September to November for the return; winter holds large duck flocks. Summer is the least interesting for birds and the busiest for the beach.

Honest expectations

This is a wetland, not a scenic lake: the pleasure needs binoculars and patience. Mosquitoes are severe at dusk. The chameleons are nocturnal, well camouflaged and rarely seen by casual visitors. Parking near Voidokilia is limited and the dunes are fragile, so keep to the paths.

Nearby

Voidokilia and Nestor's Cave are minutes away; Pylos and Niokastro lie south along the bay.