Cologne Kölsch Taverns

Kölsch is a pale top-fermented beer that may only be brewed in and around Cologne under an agreement signed by the breweries in 1986 and recognised as a protected designation. It is served in a Stange, a straight glass of two hundred millilitres, carried in a round tray called a Kranz by a waiter called a Köbes, who is expected to be brusque; empty glasses are replaced automatically and marks are made on the beer mat, and the way to stop is to place the mat over the glass. The small measure exists so the beer is drunk fresh, since it loses condition quickly. Halve Hahn, a rye roll with cheese, is the standard snack.

What you actually see

• The Stange - a 200ml straight glass replaced without asking.
• The Köbes - waiters whose brusqueness is part of the tradition.
• The beer mat tally - marks counting glasses, covered to stop service.
• Halve Hahn - a rye roll with cheese, despite a name meaning half a chicken.

When to go

Year-round; carnival in February turns the whole city into a drinking event. Traditional brewhouses are busiest in the evening and at weekends.

Honest expectations

Glasses keep arriving until you cover yours, which surprises visitors. Brewhouses are loud and shared-table. Kölsch is light and some find it thin.

Nearby

The cathedral stands above the old town; the Rhine runs alongside.