Bad Ems

Hot springs in the Lahn valley were used by the Romans and developed from the seventeenth century into a resort that drew European royalty and composers through the nineteenth century; the valley is so narrow that the Kurhaus, colonnades, theatre and hotels are packed along the banks in a single line. The 1839 Kursaal, the marble hall and the colonnade survive. Emser Pastillen, salt lozenges made from the spring water, have been produced here since the nineteenth century and are still sold. UNESCO listed Bad Ems in 2021 as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe, along with Baden-Baden and Bad Kissingen.

What you actually see

• The valley layout - spa buildings crowded along a narrow river bank.
• The Kursaal and colonnade - nineteenth-century assembly and promenade halls.
• The Emser Pastillen - salt lozenges made from the springs since the 1800s.
• The UNESCO listing - one of eleven Great Spa Towns of Europe.

When to go

April to October; the thermal baths operate year-round. Concerts use the historic halls in summer. The valley is shaded and cool.

Honest expectations

Some historic buildings are hotels or private and not enterable. The town is small and quiet. The valley position means limited sun in winter.

Nearby

Koblenz lies west; Limburg is east up the Lahn.