Nekresi Monastery

Nekresi stands on a wooded spur on the northern side of the Alazani valley, looking out across the whole width of Kakheti to the Caucasus wall beyond, and its oldest building is a small three-nave basilica once dated to the late fourth century, though excavations found nothing on the hill older than the sixth century, when the monastery was founded. Around it are a domed church of the sixth or seventh century, a bishop's palace, a tower and a working monastery, spread along the ridge among trees. A wine cellar with qvevri set in the floor has been excavated in the complex. Visitors leave cars at the bottom and go up by shuttle, since the road is narrow.

History

The monastery was founded in the 6th century; the older belief that its first church stood on a Zoroastrian shrine of the 4th century was disproved by excavations, which found no occupation of the hill before the 6th century, the time of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers, one of whom, St Abibos, preached from Nekresi to the mountaineers east of the Aragvi and is remembered as its first bishop. Building went on in the 9th century even as the town of Nekresi declined, and the defences were strengthened under the kings Leon, r. 1518-1574, and Alexander II; raids from Dagestan led the bishop to move to Shilda in 1785, and in 1811 the diocese was abolished and the monastery dissolved. The eparchy was re-established in 1995, monks returned in 2000, and from 2008 to 2010 the whole complex was excavated and renovated (Wikipedia, Nekresi Monastery).

The main sights

• The small basilica - the oldest building, from the monastery's early centuries.
• The view over the Alazani valley - Kakheti and the Caucasus beyond.
• The bishop's palace and tower - the monastic buildings along the ridge.
• An excavated qvevri cellar - winemaking within the complex.

When to go

April to October. Two hours. The shuttle runs from the lower car park and queues build at weekends. Modest dress is required and robes are lent.

Things to know

You cannot drive up; the shuttle is compulsory and can involve a wait. Interiors are dark and there is little interpretation. It is a working monastery with dress and photography rules. Tour groups arrive in numbers.

Nearby

Kvareli is east; Telavi lies west along the valley.

Key facts