Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

The cathedral was built at the end of the nineteenth century, during the russification campaign, and deliberately placed on Toompea directly opposite the seat of provincial government. That siting was the point: it was a statement of imperial presence, and for decades after independence there were serious proposals to pull it down.

What you actually see

• The exterior - dark red brick and pale stone, five onion domes and mosaic icons over the entrances.
• The bells - the largest set in Tallinn, the biggest weighing around fifteen tonnes.
• The interior - low light, a gilded iconostasis, candles and incense, and no seating.
• The singing - services in Church Slavonic, in acoustics that carry.

When to go

Mornings are quietest and the light on the west front is best. Timing a visit to a service is worth it for the singing, though visitors should stay at the back and not photograph. In winter the domes against snow are the postcard image.

Honest expectations

It is a functioning church first. Modest dress is expected, women often cover their heads, and photography inside is generally not allowed - people who arrive treating it as a museum get corrected.

The square outside is one of the busiest points in the old town, and cruise-ship groups arrive in waves through the middle of the day.

Nearby

Toompea Castle and the parliament building are directly opposite. The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing platforms are a two-minute walk, and the Dome Church is around the corner.