Alexandria Corniche

The Corniche was laid out in the 1900s and widened repeatedly since, and it runs about twenty kilometres from the Qaitbay fort in the west round the sweep of the eastern harbour and on past Stanley and Sidi Bishr to Montaza. Walking any stretch of it gives the city in cross-section: fishing boats in the old harbour, the curve of Belle Epoque and mid-century apartment blocks facing the sea, the new library on its slanted disc, seawall fishermen at all hours, and cafes where the tradition of sitting with a coffee facing the water is taken seriously. Winter storms throw spray right over the road and the sea wall, and the city floods in places, which is part of its character. The tram, one of the oldest networks in Africa, runs parallel a street inland.

What you actually see

• The harbour curve - fishing boats and the fort at the western end.
• Seafront apartment blocks - a century of architecture in one facade line.
• Seawall fishermen - lines out along the whole length at any hour.
• Winter storm spray - waves breaking over the road in the cold months.

When to go

April to November for swimming weather, but the Corniche is at its most dramatic in winter storms. Evenings are the local hour, when families and cafes fill it. Half a day to walk a good section with stops.

Honest expectations

Traffic is heavy and crossing the road is genuinely dangerous in places. The public beaches are crowded and not clean in summer. Much of the historic building line has been replaced with towers. Cafes near the tourist stretches charge well above the local rate.

Nearby

Qaitbay is at the western end; Stanley Bridge and Montaza lie east.