Nicosia

Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, holds the unusual distinction of being the last divided capital city in the world, split since 1974 between the Greek Cypriot south and the Turkish Cypriot north by a UN buffer zone that runs right through its heart. Encircled by magnificent star-shaped Venetian walls, its atmospheric old town is a maze of narrow lanes, churches, mosques, craft workshops and cafes. Visitors can cross between the two sides on foot at designated checkpoints, experiencing a city of profound history, faded charm and quiet poignancy.

What you actually see

• The Venetian walls - the star-shaped ramparts around the old town.
• The old town lanes - the churches, cafes and craft workshops.
• Ledra Street crossing - the pedestrian checkpoint between the two sides.
• The cathedral and mosques - the layered religious heritage.

When to go

April to June and September to November, for pleasant weather, as inland Nicosia is intensely hot in high summer; the old town is best explored on foot in the cooler hours. Bring a passport to cross to the northern side at the designated checkpoints.

Honest expectations

As a divided city, some areas near the buffer zone are dilapidated or sealed off, and Nicosia lacks the beaches and resort appeal of the coast, so it draws those interested in history and culture rather than sun-seekers. The division is a sensitive, ongoing political reality to approach with awareness. As a fascinating, atmospheric and poignant capital where you can walk between two worlds, though, it is genuinely compelling.

Nearby

The Troodos mountains and both coasts of the island are within reach.