Las Parrandas de Remedios

The parrandas began in Remedios in the nineteenth century and have grown into one of the loudest celebrations in the Caribbean, recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. The town is split into two neighbourhoods, San Salvador and El Carmen, and each spends the entire year in secret preparing for one night: building an enormous illuminated structure called a trabajo de plaza, a lit tower of plywood, glass and thousands of bulbs several storeys high, along with a great decorated float and, above all, a firework programme. On Christmas Eve both are unveiled at opposite ends of the square, and from midnight the two sides trade barrages of fireworks fired from the ground into the crowd's own square for hours, in a wall of noise and smoke, while congas and floats parade between them. It is chaotic, deafening and completely unlike a European Christmas.

What you actually see

• The trabajos de plaza - the two rival illuminated towers unveiled at either end of the square.
• The firework barrages - hours of competing fireworks fired across the town square.
• The floats - the huge decorated carriages paraded by each neighbourhood.
• The congas - the drumming and dancing that runs through the night.

When to go

The main parranda is on Christmas Eve into the small hours of Christmas Day; related parrandas run in other towns of the region through December. Arrive in daylight to see the towers unveiled, and plan to be up all night, as the fireworks peak after midnight.

Honest expectations

The fireworks are fired at close range in a crowded square with nothing like European safety distances, and injuries happen every year; stand well back, wear a hat and eye protection if you can, and do not push into the front. It is extremely loud. Accommodation in Remedios is limited and books out entirely, so most people stay in Santa Clara and travel in.

Nearby

Santa Clara is an hour away; the north coast cays are reached by causeway.