Costa Rican Cacao

Cacao has grown in the Talamanca lowlands since long before Europeans arrived, and among the Bribri it is not simply a crop: it carries ceremonial weight and its preparation for ritual use is restricted to women of particular clans. Commercial production collapsed in the late 1970s when monilia fungus swept the region, and what has grown back is smaller and better: farms working disease-resistant varieties, fermenting and drying carefully, and small makers producing single-origin bars. Farm tours take you through pod to bar, usually ending with grinding roasted beans on a stone and drinking the result unsweetened with chilli, which is closer to how it was drunk originally.

Highlights

• The pods - cut from the trunk and opened to show the white pulp.
• Fermentation and drying - the stages that make or ruin the flavour.
• Stone grinding - roasted beans ground by hand at the end of the tour.
• Single-origin bars - from small makers on the Caribbean slope.

When to go

Year-round; the main harvest is spread across the year with peaks that vary by farm. Tours run on weekdays and most days at the larger operations. Combine with a Bribri community visit for the ceremonial side.

Before you go

Tour quality varies widely: some are genuine working farms and others are set pieces with beans bought in. Ask whether the cacao is grown on site. Chocolate sold at tourist shops is often imported and rebranded. The best bars are from small named makers rather than the airport brands.

Nearby

Talamanca and Puerto Viejo are the Caribbean base; Sarapiquí has farms on the northern slope.