San Carlos

San Carlos sits in steep wet country where a series of rivers drop off the eastern Antioquia plateau, and the result is a concentration of waterfalls and clear granite-bedded pools within walking distance of the town - La Planta, Charco Redondo and others, some reached on short walks and some needing a guide. The town's recent history is the other thing to know: it sat in a strategic corridor with hydroelectric infrastructure, was fought over intensely, and the large majority of its population was displaced, with the town nearly emptied. Return began in the mid 2000s and most residents came back; San Carlos has since become known for its reconciliation and memory work, and there is a memorial museum in the town.

What you actually see

• Waterfalls and clear river pools - within reach of the town.
• Granite beds - keeping the water clear.
• A town nearly emptied and returned to - displacement and return.
• A memory museum - covering the conflict years and the return.

When to go

December to March. A full day or overnight.

Honest expectations

Currents and flash rises after rain have killed people at the pools. Some sites need guides. Roads in are winding and slow. The town's history is recent and residents discuss it - visitors should be respectful.

Nearby

San Rafael is north; Guatape is west.