Hormigas Culonas

These are the winged queens of Atta laevigata, a leafcutter ant, and they are only available for a short window - after the first heavy rains of the season, usually somewhere between March and May, the colonies release their queens on a nuptial flight, and that is when they are caught, over perhaps two to four weeks a year. The wings and legs are removed, they are soaked in brine and then roasted in a clay pan or oven; the result is dry and crunchy, tasting somewhere between roasted nuts and burnt popcorn, with a slightly bitter finish. The Guane people ate them long before the Spanish arrived and the practice continued. They are expensive by weight, sold in small bags, and the price reflects the short season and hand gathering.

What you actually see

• Queen leafcutter ants - gathered only during the nuptial flight.
• A season of two to four weeks - after the first heavy rains.
• Brined and dry-roasted - wings and legs removed first.
• A pre-Hispanic practice - eaten by the Guane before contact.

When to go

March to May for fresh ones; packaged year round. A tasting.

Honest expectations

The texture surprises people more than the taste. They are expensive by weight for what they are. Outside the season what is sold has been stored. People with shellfish allergies are commonly advised to avoid insects.

Nearby

Barichara and San Gil are the usual bases; Bucaramanga is north.