El Banco

El Banco sits where the Cesar river runs into the Magdalena, which made it a river port and a crossroads for the music of the Caribbean interior. The Festival Nacional de la Cumbia is held here each June and takes its full name from Jose Barros, a composer born in the town whose songs - La Piragua among many - are standards across Colombia. The festival runs competitions for cumbia bands, dancers and composers over several days and draws thousands. Cumbia itself came out of the encounter between African, indigenous and Spanish music on this coast; the version competed here is the traditional form with gaitas, drums and maracas rather than the amplified commercial styles that took the name later.

What you actually see

• The Cesar meeting the Magdalena - the town's position and its history.
• The national cumbia festival - each June, over several days.
• Traditional cumbia - gaitas and drums rather than commercial forms.
• Jose Barros's town - the composer the festival is named for.

When to go

June for the festival; December to March otherwise. A full day.

Honest expectations

The festival is the reason to come - outside it the town is a working river port with little for visitors. Accommodation during the festival is scarce and books out. Heat and humidity are severe. Access is slow by road.

Nearby

Mompox is downriver; the Magdalena runs north to the coast.