Zhenyuan Ancient Town

The Wuyang river makes a tight S through Zhenyuan, so the town sits on both banks with the water bending back on itself, and stone bridges and steps connect the two halves. It was a port and garrison on the route between the interior and the southwest, prosperous enough that guild halls were built by merchants from other provinces. Its landmark is Qinglong Dong, a complex of Buddhist, Daoist and Confucian buildings stacked against a cliff on the far bank, connected by stairs and galleries pinned to the rock. Lanes of old houses climb the hillsides, and the riverfront is lit at night.

What you actually see

• The river bend - the S-curve of the Wuyang through the town.
• Qinglong Cave - temple buildings stacked against the cliff face.
• The guild halls - merchant associations from other provinces.
• The lit riverfront - the town reflected in the water at night.

When to go

March to June and September to November for mild weather; Guizhou is frequently overcast. Evenings on the river are the most attractive. Holidays bring crowds to the waterfront.

Honest expectations

Some restoration is heavy-handed and new building in old style is extensive. Qinglong Cave charges entry and involves steep stairs. English is almost absent.

Nearby

Kaili lies southwest; Fanjingshan is northeast.