Peking Duck

Peking duck developed from roasting methods recorded in the Yuan dynasty and was refined in the Ming and Qing imperial kitchens into the dish served now. Ducks of a specific breed are raised to a set weight, air is separated from the skin, the bird is scalded, coated in maltose syrup and hung to dry before roasting, either hung over fruitwood flames in the guakao method used by Quanjude or in a closed oven in the menlu method of Bianyifang, which is the older house, founded in 1416. The duck is carved at the table into skin and meat, eaten in thin pancakes with spring onion, cucumber and sweet bean sauce, and the carcass often returned as soup.

What to look for

• The tableside carving - the duck sliced into skin and meat in front of diners.
• The two roasting schools - open flame at Quanjude, closed oven at Bianyifang.
• The pancake service - skin and meat rolled with onion, cucumber and sauce.
• The whole-bird use - the carcass returned as soup at most restaurants.

When to go

Year-round; booking is necessary at well-known restaurants, particularly in the evening and during Chinese holidays. Ducks are often roasted to order, so waits of forty minutes or more are normal even with a reservation.

Things to know

Prices vary enormously, from modest neighbourhood restaurants to expensive tourist-facing houses where quality does not always follow price. A whole duck is a lot of food for one or two people. The most famous names are heavily booked and can feel like production lines.

Nearby

Restaurants are spread across Beijing, with historic branches near Qianmen and Wangfujing.