Lugu Lake

Lugu Hu sits at 2,690 metres, deep, clear and unusually blue, ringed by wooded hills with villages on the shore and islands reached by dugout canoes with upswept ends. The lake is the homeland of the Mosuo, whose social organisation is matrilineal: households are headed by women, property and family name pass through the female line, and the traditional walking marriage arrangement means partners visit rather than form a joint household, with children raised by the mother's family. The culture is intensely marketed to visitors, which distorts how it is presented. A road circles the lake, walked or cycled in a long day.

History

In the Mosuo language lugu means "falling into the water", and hu is Chinese for lake. Kublai Khan set up his army headquarters south of the lake, and the officers and troops stationed here brought Buddhism and civil administration to Lugu Lake and Yongning; it was then that the monogamous marriage of the Mongol officials came into fashion among some Mosuo, particularly in the villages of Yankouba and Tuodian (Wikipedia, Lugu Lake).

What's there

• The blue lake - deep clear water at 2,690 metres among hills.
• The dugout canoes - traditional boats to the islands.
• The Mosuo villages - matrilineal households on the shore.
• The lake road - a circuit walked, cycled or driven around the water.

When to go

March to June and September to November for clear skies; summer brings rain, winter is cold but bright. Autumn is the clearest for the lake colour. Holidays crowd the shore villages.

What to expect

Mosuo culture is presented commercially and sometimes crudely, particularly around walking marriage; treat performances sceptically. Entry is charged for the whole lake area. Roads in are long and winding.

Nearby

Lijiang lies southwest; Xichang is northeast.

Key facts