The Li River and Guilin

The landscape of the Li River, winding between Guilin and Yangshuo, is the most famous and beloved in China, a dreamlike scene of thousands of jagged, mist-wreathed karst peaks rising above a serene river of bamboo groves, water buffalo and fishing villages. Immortalised in classical paintings and printed on the twenty-yuan banknote, this timeless scenery is best seen on a leisurely river cruise or from the rice terraces and villages around Yangshuo.

What you actually see

• The Li River cruise - the boat journey among the karst peaks to Yangshuo.
• The karst peaks - the thousands of jagged, mist-wreathed mountains.
• Yangshuo - the laid-back town and its countryside of bike rides and villages.
• The Longji rice terraces - the spectacular terraced hillsides nearby.

When to go

April to October for the warmest weather and greenest scenery; the misty, atmospheric conditions that make the landscape magical can come any time, while heavy summer rain occasionally raises the river. Spring and autumn balance warmth and clear-enough skies.

Honest expectations

The main tourist cruises can be busy and somewhat packaged, so a smaller bamboo raft on a quieter stretch, or exploring the countryside around Yangshuo by bike, gives a more intimate experience. The famous mist is atmospheric but unpredictable. Yangshuo's centre has become touristy, but the surrounding villages remain idyllic.

Nearby

Yangshuo and the Longji rice terraces are close; Guilin is the gateway city.