Dali Old Town and Erhai Lake

Dali lies on a narrow plain between the Cangshan range, a wall of nineteen peaks rising to over four thousand metres, and Erhai, a lake of around 250 square kilometres named for its ear-like shape. It was the capital of the Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms before the Mongol conquest, and it remains the centre of Bai culture, whose whitewashed houses with painted gables and tie-dye textiles are seen throughout the villages. The old town within its walls is now largely given to guesthouses, bars and shops. The lake is circled by road and cycle path, with fishing villages, markets and old temples strung around the shore.

What you actually see

• The walled old town - gates, streets and Bai houses under Cangshan.
• Erhai lake - the ear-shaped lake circled by road and cycle path.
• The Cangshan range - nineteen peaks with paths and a cable car.
• The Bai villages - whitewashed houses, tie-dye and lakeside markets.

When to go

March to June and September to November; Yunnan's rains fall from June to September. Winter is dry, sunny and cold at night. Holidays fill the old town completely.

Honest expectations

The old town is thoroughly commercial and loud at night. Lake shore development has been heavy, with periodic building restrictions and demolitions. Altitude is around 2,000 metres.

Nearby

The Three Pagodas lie north of town; Xizhou is up the lake.